In a darkened show space, lit by the glow of lavender sand dunes, Gemma Ward stunned Milan Fashion Week by opening Prada’s Spring/Summer 2015 presentation. This was the first time Ward has been on the runway since she retired in 2008, but even her presence could not distract us from Miuccia Prada’s incredible celebration of textiles.
Prada focused on preserving the highly specialized skills that are quickly becoming obsolete as the industry’s use of technology progresses. In tribute to that, she created her own textiles for this collection, but instead of feeling new, the clothes felt lived in. With raw, unfinished elements, like unraveling hemlines on the skirts, Prada juxtaposed homespun charm with highly technical technique.
Models clomped sturdily down the runway in platform clogs worn over sheer, floral-printed socks, separates intersected with contrast stitching in tones of brown, tailored trench coats, sheath dresses, and relaxed skirts. Standout pieces included trench coats and skirts across which the designer had run thin strips of lace-like fabrics, evident only if you looked close enough. Here looks were often layered with dusters stacked over sweaters, button-ups, and and skirts. Weightier pieces also came in the form of glossy leather trench coats, relaxed leather skirts, and cable knits. From the fabrics and the colors to the styling, this is definitely not what comes to mind when one thinks of a spring wardrobe. Later in the show, contrasting patterns and clashing color combinations highlighted the lavish brocades that were the thesis of the presentation. Prada chose a relaxed, digestible silhouette, relying on unique, illustrious fabrics to carry her message forward: the forgotten importance of materials.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree