Sitting in one of the futuristic, pastel-colored rooms that Prada’s Via Fogazzaro venue had been divided into, watching models with strange (for lack of a better word) hairdos emerging on the runway, we couldn’t help but think of The Jetsons. Rubberized boots and loafers, thick, neoprene shift dresses, and elbow-length gloves recalled the 1960s cartoon, which depicted a family’s life in a utopian space future. These were indeed the fifties and sixties of the future, all wrapped up in Miuccia Prada’s signature ability to throw a whole presentation off kilter.
She began with a selection of suits in bubblegum pink, slate gray, chartreuse, and camel, but presented them in a futuristic neoprene fabric that made the stitching and pocket details pop from the surface. She also experimented with shape, adding a fold at the waistline of her frocks to build natural curve into the silhouette that was then amplified to add exaggerated femininity. There were plenty of other feminine elements as well, from mirrored paillettes and fur panels to floral appliqués and silk bows.
A Prada collection is not complete without some form of social commentary or another.
A Prada collection is not complete without some form of social commentary or another, and, this season, the designer’s topic of choice was beauty and all the clichés that surround it. In order to deconstruct the concept, she turned to excessive femininity. Models were dressed to the nines, sporting glittering hairpins, Mary Jane heels, pocketbooks, and floral brooches. Not so long ago, women used to dress up to travel, to go to the supermarket, to clean the house, and to greet their husbands after a long day of work. It was a time when the idea of the feminine aesthetic was oppressively prescribed. This is the cultural theme that Prada is addressing. Those ideas of beauty are old-fashioned, but, by making them futuristic and slightly askew, she manipulates them to express a fashion philosophy that is quite modern – and incredibly covetable.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree