For Spring/Summer 2016, Hedi Slimane titled his Saint Laurent collection ‘Skin’ and, as the name might suggest, there was plenty of bare, dermal surfaces to be found beneath barely-there slip dresses. For Slimane’s show at Paris Fashion Week, the designer constructed a rotating robotic cube dotted with strip lighting, which was the perfect theatrical backdrop for a collection rife with musician-inspired looks. Dozens of lamé and nude sequined slip dresses clomped down the runway beneath studded moto jackets, denim toppers, and lynx-print furs, channeling Courtney Love and her kind. We’ve come to expect this look from Slimane, but what was unexpected were more modest garments that offered relief from the skin parade. A color-blocked jigsaw covered the surface of a silk dress that reached all the way to the floor, which was followed by a cozy, oversized gray mohair sweater. But Slimane dispensed with modesty rather quickly, and closed the show with a series of nude and black négligées that made no attempt to cover the chest. The popular appeal of Saint Laurent under Slimane’s leadership owes everything to his irreverent reproduction of the music world’s style tropes – be it grunge, or punk, or garage rock, Slimane mines it all for inspiration. The grunge kids of the 90s could never have imagined what would become of their pioneering aesthetic, nor would they care, but Slimane doesn’t use and abuse his points of inspiration. He worships them. With slavish devotion he photographs the music industry’s coolest underground “It” kids, which turns them into the kind of idols that sell clothes. Just look at the tomboyish models on his runway in their ironic “grunge” tiaras and rubber rainboots. His aesthetic is as unapologetically rebellious as it gets.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree