For Spring/Summer 2016, Kenzo took its audience on a magic carpet ride to a whole new world (so, don’t you dare close your eyes). Its message of globe-trotting wanderlust is very much in keeping with the brand’s hip, youthful aesthetic, and the theatrical show it staged at Paris Fashion Week managed to top even its most extravagant and artistic previous efforts. At a Kenzo runway presentation, you can count on being confronted by outré spectacles, but the only drawback is that the clothes sometimes don’t live up to the theater of the brand’s sets. Fortunately, this was not the case this season, as Carol Lim and Humberto Leon flexed serious optic muscle in the form of primary-colored patterns so bold that they popped from every surface, turning the set’s archways and motorized stage into background noise. Filtered through a global worldview, this collection was a melting pot of ideas that represented the international fashion philosophies of the brand.
Wild pattern mixtures were turned into tidy little apron dresses with suit-buttoned fronts, fitted slips with full skirts, graphic sweaters, and more. Supporting the presentation’s short hemline was a covetable series of lacquered leather thigh-high sandals with latticework etched into the shin. Amazing kimono/tuxedo jacket hybrids in smooth fabrics and an array of primary colors had utility built in with accessorized waistlines, which sported several zippered pouches at once. Meanwhile, knit leotards scrawled unique patterns onto the skin, and loose track pants came in a variety of exotic, abstract patterns. Toward the end, the smooth, unembellished surfaces of Kenzo’s multi-printed separates and tops took a turn for the feminine, as the brand unleashed several peplum- and ruffle-hemmed relaxed tanks and floor-sweeping maxi dresses. It was an exceedingly cool collection, the kind you can buy from top to toe or take apart to pair with an existing wardrobe – either way, you’ll end up with a winning look.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree