There are thousands of designers in the fashion industry that claim to know what women want, but one of the few reliable champions we trust implicitly is Phoebe Philo at Céline. Her imagination, although vastly creative, never places women in settings they would never actually find themselves. For Spring/Summer 2016, her proposition is simple: What would women pack if they were to go abroad for an entire year? The presentation venue echoed the idea and placed the audience’s feet in the sand, connecting them to a nomadic idea that was more down to earth than farfetched (no fashionable woman is going wandering barefoot in the desert for a year, but she’d be delighted to spend some time at an open-air beach café in a desert location). The clothes were chic and packable, but tailored in imaginative ways that proved Philo’s position at the front of the fashion vanguard.
What would women pack if they were to go abroad for an entire year?
The practical nature of her collection – with its versatile mix-and-match potential and sophisticated outerwear – contrasted with an experimental aesthetic that saw cool leather tabards intersected by clinging ribbed knit panels at the waist or balloon-sleeved tops with rounded shoulders. There were anchor pieces that supported the needs of a travel-oriented wardrobe, like crisp separates with sparse stitched and buttoned details, romantic lace-trimmed slips, slim-cut jersey knit dresses with plissé skirts (which were both comfortable and completely chic), and unfussy English tartan separates. From a seaside resort to colder climes, Philo considered every angle, and offered up creamy mink coats (worn backwards, naturally) and glossy leather car coats covered in rivulets of black-and-white print. Armed with this collection’s pillowy leather bags, flat boots, and drop earrings, one could gain mileage from a suitcase filled with these beautiful clothes, the crumpled surfaces of which suggest they have just been back from a trip abroad.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree