It is often the case if a collection cites a singular muse that the ensuing presentation will be thematically cohesive, but at Rochas the narrative was disjointed. The prime influencer of Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s show for Rochas was Gala Dalí – an agitator, a social radical, and a self-involved woman by all accounts. Yet, there was little of her firebrand ways to be found in this collection save for jewel-encrusted necklines that paid homage to the diamanté necklaces she favored and giraffe scenery that was a subliminal nod to her husband Salvador Dalí’s surrealist canvases. Let’s proceed without the citation of muses – it is an unnecessary construct.
Sparkling hothouse florals radiated from the surface of oversized suiting and linear frocks at the start of the show, but the brocatelle arrangement soon gave way to feminine doily lace sheath dresses, textured carcoats, and sheer dresses dusted with ruffled framework. Surprising stylistic elements were found on sheer floor-length, sleeveless gowns, which topped sporty, graphic tanks and statement necklaces. Meanwhile, blush-pink and mint-green patent leather was trimmed into double-breasted long jackets, bralettes, hot pants, and skirts that ran alongside silk suiting and oversized drop-waist maxis. Without clear reference points, the collection drifted between fitted and oversized, sheer and opaque, embellished and plain – which was underscored by silhouettes both modern and retro. Approached without the Dalí angle, the collection breathes in relief as the association is too hard to interpret from the variety of feminine, ruffled dresses and glitzy tropical-printed suiting. What makes a stronger impact is Dell’Acqua’s approach to weight and counterweight, allowing plenty of versatile options for the season, which were tied together by a sort of madcap romanticism that threw together everything from the glossy and baroque to the sheer and effervescent.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree