With a mind toward the “sophisticated and raw”, Dries Van Noten presented an eccentric collection for Spring/Summer 2016 that aimed to capture the essence of a “flamboyant woman”. His muse was monied, artsy, and certainly a scream at parties, bedecked in a high-octane blend of dizzying, bi-colored patterns layered atop exotic, tattoo-effect body suits. With an attractive arrangement of color and pattern, something as simple as the unexpected way he presented the clothes in layers revealed a surprisingly wearable presentation.
Dries Van Noten’s baroque tapestries signaled a cool new uniform for the woman with a big personality and a wardrobe to match.
Sequined sheaves of wheat trailed along navy coats and over-wide trousers to lead the show, and were later reimagined as embroidered patterns atop handsome, mannish blazers, cropped trousers, and full skirts. Each look contained a unique assortment of menswear and womenswear, color pairings, and pattern clashes, which highlighted the flamboyant and confident attitude of Van Noten’s muse. Her dissonant uniform cobbled together the most unlikely elements; purple tattooed bodysuits were worn beneath transparent blouses and earth-toned vests, which topped embossed trousers, while other options included a metallic silver jacket stitched with a flourish of purple sequins, patterned walking shorts, and a buttoned-to-the-throat printed blouse.
The color palette was equally eclectic and intriguing, and showed such combinations as salmon, sage, chartreuse, and fuchsia on a single look. It was as if a bespoke upholstery factory had exploded onto the runway, and the chaotic disarray of patterns that radiated from Van Noten’s smart frocks and suiting comprised the canvas for his disruptive artistry. Some of the best looks came from slip dresses that were weighed down by a millefeuille of burnished gold tulle, sequin-encrusted brassieres, disheveled chiffon frocks interjected with rippling ruffles, and the coolest varsity jackets this side of the season. Juxtaposed against an industrial space at Paris Fashion Week, Van Noten’s baroque tapestries signaled a cool new uniform for the woman with a big personality and a wardrobe to match.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree