There is a fine line between honoring the female form and objectifying it, which is a boundary that the more sensuous designers must tread cautiously with every collection. Belgian-born provocateur Anthony Vaccarello approaches the risqué brought on by his training in sculpture, which imbues his work with a sincere sense of refinement. Although flesh-baring clothes are the titillating trope he works in, Vaccarello never does so with a sense of vulgarity. With a successful Versus Versace show already under his belt for Spring/Summer 2016, he now turns his attention to his eponymous label, which launched day one of Paris Fashion Week.
Provocateur Anthony Vaccarello approaches the risqué brought on by his training in sculpture.
True to form, there were plenty of sizzling looks on his runway, but they were underscored by elegant de mode references like punky embellishments, cutouts, pixelated digital prints, and prim military trim. Army greens came first, with mini skirts tightly tailored to the body and starchy jackets with stand-up collars, while asymmetrical details and gold discs impressed the clothes with a contemporary mood. Slip dresses and tanks were either shown in sheer fabrics with embellished exteriors or covered in digital face prints.
While we expected to revel in the jaw-dropping impact of super high-cut slits that revealed jutting hip bones, we didn’t expect to see skinny denim trousers paired with sentimental floral-printed button-ups. The latter most definitely came out of left field, but Vaccarello quickly returned to form with one-shoulder gowns that were cut out and held together by O-rings and double-buckled open-slit skirts that were supported by a harness that slashed diagonally across the torso. When it comes to sensual and extremely revealing style, looks must appeal to the women who wear them, lest they become nothing more than objects surrendering to the male gaze. Vaccarello’s collection might have bid adieu to modesty, but it was tempered by such confidence that it’s clear his passion for the female form is honest, not lascivious.