Milan Fashion Week Coverage: Jil Sander Spring 2016 Collection

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The Jil Sander aesthetic has remained much the same over the past year under the new tutelage of Rodolfo Paglialunga, but for Spring/Summer 2016 he decided to try something new, something a little more unexpected. For so long, Jil Sander has been a source of sophisticated clothing, predicated on minimalist surfaces and crisp structure. While this collection honors the brand’s big picture, it refreshes the aesthetic with delicate and alluring details.

For Spring/Summer 2016 Jil Sander’s Rodolfo Paglialunga decided to try something new.

Familiar austerity was undone by soft, slippery silks, where tiny cutouts removed just the right amount of weight. Even leathers were supple and soft, tailored into lovely jackets with slender shoulder cutouts and elongated day coats. Additionally, there were loungey jumpsuits, off-shoulder blouses, and asymmetrically stitched skirts that offered gentle, luxe looks for day. Paglialunga’s spare, but experimental, approach resulted in other slightly off-kilter designs, like leathery dresses that were open on one side and knotted at the navel, peel-away suede tanks, halter-neck vests worn over fuzzy off-shoulder sweaters, and jackets constructed with bulky sleeves that puckered at the elbow. It was as if Paglialunga had sketched whole looks and then carefully subtracted here and there to create small angles and negative space on otherwise smooth, blemish-free surfaces. With a nod to emerging seasonal trends, like the cold-shoulder look and dangling ribbon accoutrements, Jil Sander’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection allows buyers to claim a small stake in the trend game all the while maintaining adherence to codes of sophisticated restraint and classic style.

Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree

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