Milan Fashion Week Coverage: Emilio Pucci Spring 2016 Collection

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June’s debut Resort collection for Emilio Pucci was Massimo Giorgetti’s pilot episode, which he followed with Spring/Summer 2016’s “Episode One” collection that has provided enough intrigue to keep the audience on the hook, for now. Giorgetti’s first act as new creative director of Pucci was diving into the archives, where he surfaced with seaside printed scarves from the 1950s and 1970s that would form the inspiration for this collection’s maritime theme.

Nautical stripes were updated for the season on opening looks; not only were the stripes asymmetrically arranged, but so were the garments they decorated. Double split-front sequined skirts accompanied striped tops, watercolor lurex knit separates, and transparent tunics. Meanwhile, plissé separates and studded ribbed knits were topped with sprawling appliqué bibs, and multi-colored sprays of feathers were sealed under transparent layers to form lovely sheath dresses trimmed with a repeated row of “Emilio” written in cursive along the hem. Pants and dresses made from netting were tangled with a colorful assortment of aquatic life, which made oceanic references literal, as did tactile dresses and silky loungewear separates covered in embroidered fish. These “catch of the day” references were fun in theory, but a little kitschy. Crafty looks fared better, especially in the case of perforated and pleated slip dresses, and sheaths comprised of a network of abstract appliqués. Noticeably absent from Giorgetti’s line-up was Pucci’s signature jet-setting, sophisticated style and graphic prints. For this storied Italian brand, a youthful new director equated to a youthful new direction.

Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree

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