For Spring/Summer 2016, Fendi’s futurism was packaged with elements from the bygone Renaissance era and its billowing volumes, but make no mistake – this collection is firmly forward-thinking. Fendi’s cosmopolitan courtesans might have rocked exaggerated sleeves and bloomers, but tactile decorative surfaces exalted in artisan elements that transcended trends and defied expectations.
Contrasting volumes defined the silhouette on Fendi’s runway, but occasionally looks struggled to make sense in the modern wardrobe. From the outset, there were gorgeous tops with braided yoke details and corrugated sleeves, smocked tunics, and haute macramé jackets, but paired with each were pouchy bloomers which would probably be best left sleeping in the tombs of fashion history. The main focus of the collection was its impressive array of exaggerated stitching, weaving, and braided ornamentation, which lighted upon the surface of cut-out blazers, voluminous skirts, contemporary peasant blouses, leather playsuits and shrunken mini dresses.
Leather dresses and bombers were lashed together by exaggerated whipcord, while others were strapped down by harnesses featuring blooming Tudor Rose appliqués, or textured with an astonishing maze of woven leather micro-stitching. A Fendi collection would not be complete without some form of fur, so the brand showed “summer mink”, which featured fur segmented and pieced together with top braiding. Although Karl Lagerfeld declared backstage that there were no references at work in the show, it was clear that Fendi has fallen in line with the craft-oriented aesthetic that has provoked needed reform in the ready-to-wear world. After all, handicraft is exactly where fashion began before the Industrial Revolution started churning out garments en masse. For Spring/Summer 2016, fashion lovers can rest assured that their Fendi selections are attentively made by the hands of the atelier’s mighty artisans.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree