Before social media, the festival-goer reveled in relative obscurity. Once we gained access to images from this rarefied world, the picture painted of days spent soul-searching in the desert became a driving force of commodification. The bohemian trend is here to stay — further evidence that the embodiment of counter-culture has become pop culture. From New York and London and now to Milan, designers have seized upon this fixture of the collective unconscious and have birthed a new form of bohemianism defined by an embarrassment of beautiful clothes.
Alberta Ferretti was not immune to the overwhelming tide of New Bohemia, even going so far as to reference Burning Man in the show notes for her Spring/Summer 2016 presentation. Every designer who has taken up this bohemian banner interprets the trend in their own way, and thankfully, Ferretti is so skilled at her craft that her collection was among the best to emerge from this fashion zeitgeist.
Alberta Ferretti is so skilled at her craft that her collection was among the best to emerge from this fashion zeitgeist.
Recognizing the kinetic potential of a desert landscape, Ferretti’s reliably gossamer gowns got down to earth in an array of earthen hues, raw hand-crafted fabrics, and comfortable silhouettes. Sprawls of homespun lace mapped new terrain across the surface of skirts and slip dresses, while a patchwork of top-stitched suede formed cropped vests and muscular sheaths. Looks were ethno-romantic and refined by an easeful fit, but when topped by heavy golden jewelry the nomadic tribal references became a little too literal.
Ferretti also focused on other sides of desert life with a series of safari suits, loose satin separates, and trench coats that spoke to a more sophisticated wanderer. Midway through the show, the aesthetic was redirected toward Grecian goddess gowns, printed dresses with fragile fringed bodices, and full lace tunics, which exercised the full potential of Ferretti’s featherweight fabrics. From there, hand-woven crochets and unfinished material flaunted beautiful craftwork, especially in the case of one dress that was wrought from raw hemp which ended in a hurricane of wispy sashes. Final looks displayed a breathtaking selection of dresses contoured out of layered butterfly wings that were so lifelike we half expected them to take flight. As earthy and bohemian as this collection was, it was underscored by a fierce, vulnerable beauty that elevated the looks to lofty heights.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree