An excerpt from a love letter written by Frida Kahlo to her longtime lover Diego Rivera became a key reference point for Osman’s Spring/Summer 2016 show, which paid homage to the famed Mexican artist. But the theme of love was as far as Kahlo’s influence went in this collection. Comprised primarily of Spanish toreador costumes transformed into tiered column gowns and mannish separates, Osman’s architectural design technique led to a startling and beautiful display.
The show was off to a simple start with a modernized toreador look that featured a starchy shirt tied off with a simple black ribbon and a pair of high-waisted loose trousers. A few versions of this look followed before Osman changed courses toward the dramatic. Out came a stunning sleeveless column gown made from alternating black and white tiers, followed by an equally impressive white dress with an upturned fan attachment that gave the neckline surprising dimension. Fluid jumpsuits with sweetheart necklines, one-shoulder tiered dresses, rust-colored skirts with folded layers, and floor-scraping maxis took their turns next. When Osman wasn’t sculpting ruffles or painting elegant gowns with abstract scenery, he was turning his attention to menswear, showing bulky suits and silk tuxedos. For the finale, Osman ramped up the drama again with monochrome looks that featured white capes atop graphic-printed dresses, buttoned tops with embellished branch details, and a show-stopping lemon-colored gown with a rooted tree stitched along the front. This elegant presentation married clean lines, sculptural accents, and high-octane drama together in a way that felt right for the season.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree