Peter Pilotto’s brilliant prints were the brand’s bread and butter for years, but Spring/Summer 2016 sees it moving away from the aesthetic that it built its name upon. This season, prints take a backseat, appearing liminally in the collection as a series of circle and triangle shapes stamped along sporty off-shoulder bandeaus and flirty dresses. Peter Pilotto’s new focus is on seersucker striped fabric, which is cut into panels and arranged in intersecting patterns to form lightweight, breezy dresses and sportif separates. The inspiration behind this new development came from a recent trip to Greece, where Pilotto and his design partner Christopher de Vos became enraptured by the country’s traditional peasant embroidery, soft cotton textiles, and seaside colors. This new aesthetic can be seen as an extension of the brand’s Resort 2016 collection, which also lifted influence from the Greek isles.
The show launched with more familiar looks, which deployed graphic geometry along the surface of crisp sleeveless tops, skirts that featured trompe-l’œil pleating, and safari jackets. From there, Pilotto injected printed textiles with seersucker sleeves and bodices, and then allowed seersucker to take over completely in the form of tiered dresses with dangling ribbons and embroidered necklines. Ruffles were then introduced into the collection on feminine wide-weave knit tops, which were paired with wide, supple culottes. Pilotto’s slow introduction of elements became a cacophony of textures midway through the show, with sporty graphic bralettes, asymmetrically stitched transparent pencil skirts, and peasant-like ruffled dresses steering Pilotto’s buoyant new direction. If you seek out Peter Pilotto for print-heavy looks this coming spring, you’ll likely be disappointed, but, if you’re open minded, his feminine, featherweight dresses are actually quite tempting.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree