At this stage in her career, Mary Katrantzou possesses the acumen of designers twice her age, but that doesn’t mean she’s reached the end of her journey. Instead, she treats every season as a new beginning, as a chance to show off a brilliant new print, or technical mind-boggling miracle. There is no limit to her creativity. For Spring/Summer 2016, Katrantzou experiments again, this time by creating a sensational line-up of simple, easy-to-wear dresses that were decorated and upholstered in some of the most marvelous tapestries to ever walk the runway. Essentially, she wanted to create light, wearable pieces that could be tucked into a suitcase, but that would still captivate and dazzle once unfurled and worn. This blueprint for effortless but extremely glamorous style might actually be the rare and elusive answer to the age-old question: “What do women want [to wear]?”
The collection was as beautiful and breathtaking as any celestial body hidden inside our immense universe.
Themed “Chaos and Cosmos”, the collection was as beautiful and breathtaking as any celestial body hidden inside our immense universe. Chaos came from the wild and exotic mix of prints, patterns, embroidery, and beading that derived from a sublime patchwork of traditional folk elements borrowed from the Balkans, Ukrainians, Spanish, and Romanians. Delicate, fluttering shift dresses glittered under the lights of the runway, their coruscated surfaces scored with dozens of intricately embroidered and beaded patterns. Katrantzou also showed several looks with magical, sparkling tights that fit down over the foot, which sent the social media world into a frenzy.
As if we weren’t already convinced of her design genius, Katrantzou changed course halfway through the show in a move that proved her range. She stepped away from dense sparkle and explored a different technique that folded silky, embossed dresses into origami shapes that resembled a lifted peplum, and outfitted the skirts of several dresses with a waterfall of multi-sized ruffles. If a densely sequined or ruffled wardrobe sounds a little too intense for you, Katrantzou also created a series of black dresses and separates that were lightly touched with embellishment. Set against a tilted mirror backdrop, the catwalk seemed to extend forever into infinity, a nod to the limitless nature of both the cosmos and Katrantzou’s creative skills.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree