When it comes to fashion, we’re not ones to mince words. So, for the sake of honesty, we’ll come out and say that sometimes Calvin Klein’s signature minimalism can be oh-so-boring on the runway. It’s a different story seeing the pieces in person, and feeling how well constructed they are and how versatile they can be, but the runway presentation doesn’t always reflect that. However, Spring/Summer 2016 presented a gleaming, empowering collection that translated so well on the runway that we were left in stunned silence after the show. The mood was insouciant, sensual, and instantly desirable. Just when you thought the slip-dress trend (which, coincidentally, started on the Calvin Klein runway in 1994) was slipping into the discount bin, Francisco Costa rescued it with a sleek and sophisticated version.
The newly reconstructed Calvin Klein slip dress is a real beauty. Lustrous silk was cut to an easeful fit and length and constructed with corset-like seaming and a low, slack neckline. The collection moved intelligently forward, building on a theme of relaxed, polished glamour, which included wide-leg silk trousers, sleeveless tuxedo/tunic hybrids, and deconstructed coats. Nonchalant outerwear was the show’s best feature, especially when Costa imprinted the pieces with a romantic floral pattern. Many of the looks were constructed with extra straps, harness-like attachments, and floating silk ribbons, which meant they were imbued with breezy movement and constantly felt like they were on the verge of falling apart. This gave the collection major edge and advanced new territory for the brand. It was definitely different than what we’ve seen before from Costa and Klein.
Boring this was not.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree