Just as editors had begun prepping for London Fashion Week and our attentions had started shifting to events across the pond, Marc Jacobs yanked the spotlight back to New York where he staged a monumental Spring/Summer 2016 show at the historic Ziegfeld theatre. The grand finale of New York Fashion Week couldn’t have been more grand or more spectacular. Details were fitted to the occasion down to the “Playbill” invites, a Marc Jacobs-themed “pop quiz” found inside the playbill, popcorn and fountain drink refreshments, surprise celebrity castings, and, of course, a theatrical display of his new collection.
There was a much lighter, optimistic mood running through Jacobs’ presentation — gone were the heavy Victorian-era silhouettes and nouveau-goth looks. Instead, he opted for a patriotic palette of red, white, and blue, which would have been campy had it none been for the collection’s smart styling. Slouchy tomboy sweatshirts were paired with fully sequined slit skirts, which were followed by layered prep-school-gone-mental looks that stacked plaid shirts with cardigans and full-volume skirts. Jacobs then changed directions and showed mixed-print looks that were fresh and artsy, as well as glam-rock pinstriped suits that Bowie would have gone ga-ga for. Jacobs’ skill with embellishment was on full display with a series of beaded dresses, some covered in a complex grid of prints and sequin embroidery with skirts upholstered in wispy appliqués.
Controlled chaos might be the best way to describe the show. There were 30s silhouettes, matriarchal beaded dresses, 1970s suiting, varsity jackets, intarsia knits, foiled military jackets with pointed shoulders, and so much more. The palette kept things cohesive, but something tells us Jacobs didn’t care about cohesion this season. Whatever ideas he had in mind, he went with, and fortunately for shoppers his mind is a wealth of interesting and novel designs. By all accounts, this show was a smashing success. It looks like Marc Jacobs finally got his groove back.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree