Another fairy tale unfolded on the Oscar de la Renta runway for Spring/Summer 2016, but this time the story was told by a different narrator. In Peter Copping’s sophomore ready-to-wear collection, the romance of rose blossoms burst into bloom but the fantasy gowns of yesteryear felt different this time around. While the brand has faithfully delivered beautiful, well-constructed (and extremely expensive) garments season after season, this collection was packed with fresh flavor and surprising twists on de la Renta’s time-honored recipe.
Copping clearly had Spain on the brain, and allowed delicate Spanish lace in vibrant shades of crimson, jet black, and snow white to inform the way he folded, tucked, pleated, and constructed his contemporary creations. On one dress, he crossed and knotted jade eyelet lace into a wonderful peplum bodice and fitted the skirt with side ruching and a demure ruffled hemline.
On a stunning teal gown, a network of wiry appliqués led to a lace paneled neckline that clung to the throat, which was an arresting sight to see. But there was more than one show-stopping look to behold on the de la Renta runway; in fact each garment deserves meditation. Slim-cut twin sets and even a tailored silk skirt suit were surprisingly youthful, but when in doubt, you can always reach for a delightful puffball coat instead. Copping’s inventive lace offerings made a strong play for “best in show,” but gorgeous ball gowns also left an indelible impression. By twisting silks into origami-like folds, Copping toyed with the traditional princess-cut silhouette. On some looks he scattered surfaces with rose appliqués, while others were dipped in lace embroidery. It was clear that Copping worked with an editor’s eye, as each look — no matter how lavish — still maintained a sense of serene confidence. Set to a sultry speakeasy soundtrack, this collection definitely made our hearts beat a little faster.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree