New York Fashion Week Coverage: 3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2016 Collection

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The 10th anniversary of 3.1 Phillip Lim found the pioneering sportswear designer in a contemplative mood for Spring/Summer 2016. While contemporary luxury was once the realm of the elite, Phillip Lim broke the mold by providing modern, luxe looks at more affordable prices, and rapid success followed.

Photo: Courtesy of Getty Images

The Maya Lin-designed set — which showcased dirt piles in an industrial space — was far too similar to the lavender sand-dune set of Prada’s Spring/Summer 2015 show, but she can’t be blamed for the copycat appearance, as she had never worked in the fashion world before this moment. In comparison to the collection, her “earthwork” artistry befitted the terrestrial palette of the clothes, which were sent forth in lovely shades of grass green, fawn, taupe, and navy blue.

For the forthcoming season, Lim imagined a new fashion uniform — one that pits the supple versus the solid and the soft against the sturdy by working sleek silks and flurid prints into a tapestry of rougher fabrics. Not only were the materials used in contrast, but so were the looks, as Lim presented new ways to rock the Victorian trend with street style anoraks piled on top of ruffled, high-collar blouses. This incongruous mashup of old-school and new-school ideas was a fine way to reflect on the designer’s decade-long career. Also in the mix were radiant silk, sackcloth-waist trousers, deconstructed jogging attire, all-weather jackets that were sliced at the elbow, and viscose blouses with billowing sleeves. The mix of sporty and chic was classic Lim, through and through, but amplified volumes were a new proposition. However, the addition of so much extra fabric made some looks a little too bulky, giving the impression that Lim had too many ideas working at once. Careful editing would have solved this misstep easily.

Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree

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