Skylight at Moynihan Station, New York Fashion Week’s new stomping grounds, played host to Hervé Léger by Max Azria’s 30th anniversary runway presentation. Amid auspicious new surroundings, the brand returned to the tried-and-tested formula that has been the engine of the house since 2007: the bandage dress. For Spring/Summer 2016, Max and Lubov Azria worked their familiar silhouette into a myriad of stunning styles, which relied on an especially appealing patterned motif formed by decorative intersecting lines. Yet, what appeared to be a printed network overlapping each look was, upon closer inspection, actually made from creative handwoven macramé, woven pleather, micro-grommets, and textured jacquard.
While these creative details added luxury and dimensionality to the looks, the brand’s real pivot came from surprising tunic-and-trouser combinations — Hervé Léger by Max Azria is not exactly known for modest, full-coverage looks. It was also interesting to see the introduction of bell sleeves into the collection, as their leisurely shape juxtaposed beautifully with the brand’s bodycon dresses. After the nouveau-sportif lineup finished its round on the runway, the label introduced a 30-look finale in honor of its 30th birthday, which offered a retrospective on its best archival looks. They were pretty, but very much “more of the same” when it came to established signatures. Not that it’s a bad thing to replay one’s greatest hits; in fact, it gave the audience a crisp reminder of Hervé Léger’s sincere commitment to fitted, flirty finery.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree