Julie de Libran, the new Creative Director at Sonia Rykiel, debuted her first collection for the brand at Paris Fashion Week in an intimate setting presented as a “housewarming” party. Although the Sonia Rykiel brand has sped through several designers since its founder retired, it looks like de Libran will stick. There is no need to explain to her the brand’s DNA; she gets it. Her mother favored Sonia Rykiel’s chic, tomboyish designs, and de Libran is quick to build on that foundation. Her smart adaptation of house codes is evidenced by a Spring/Summer 2015 collection pervaded by Rykiel’s iconic tropes.
The presentation is youthful, sexy, and agile, moving easily from shrunken tweed blazers and fringed ponchos to silky coveralls and knit vests. The looks are presented with confidence and verve, fitted close to the body and revealing peeks of flesh under crisscross halter bandeaus and low-slung sailor pants. Khaki combinations and military green enter the scene on daywear separates and outerwear, which quickly transition to more luxe looks comprised of multi-colored fur vests and glittering sequined mini dresses. De Libran ticks the boxes of our favorite seasonal trends before surprising the audience with a rock ‘n’ roll agenda, highlighted by leather separates stamped with metal grommets, leather track pants, and menswear accented with sequin overlays. A final run of complex, flesh-baring gowns and silky jumpsuits worn with fur chubs ends the presentation on a high note, and then de Libran takes to the runway for her farewell, glowing with the confidence that comes from knocking it out of the park on her first time at bat.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree
