When Haider Ackermann first entered the scene, the fashion industry was thunderstruck by his imaginative, singular drape-and-tuck tailoring and his ability to entice forth some of the runway’s most elegant silhouettes. It’s been over a decade since he first debuted as an unknown in Paris, and over time his techniques began to feel predictable. It is with great jubilee that Spring/Summer 2015 heralded a “comeback” of sorts for the designer, with a collection of glowing looks cultivated from a dreamy palette, lush fabrics and an incredibly desirable silhouette.
Excess fabric and elongated lengths are a thing of the past. For Spring/Summer 2015, Ackermann lightens the load, embracing the briefest of hemlines, skinny little trousers worn low at the hip, and eclectic toppers that piled on ruched details. It’s a collection so cohesively compiled as to make buyers want to snap up every last piece – from the crumpled silk track suits and glossy plastic trousers to the minimalist belts and delicate sandals. Sweatshirts with chiffon backing make an elegant daywear choice for spring, while hooded jackets crafted from oyster-like ripples represent the streetwise and the savvy. Ackermann has long courted androgyny, and languid oversized pantsuits and nip-waist jackets paired with skinny trousers were fabulous for the Tilda Swinton types. Ackermann, the consummate perfectionist, delivered the type of complicated handiwork we love, but developed into something much more youthful, with a hint of edginess that sharpened his fluid, dreamy looks. Welcome back to the top, Haider Ackermann. It’s good to see you where you belong.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree