Isabel Marant has explored nearly every meter of the haute hippie map, and her versions of eclectic Americana style are uproariously popular with the cool girl crowd. Spring/Summer 2015 throws a wrench in our expectations, as Marant turns “tribal.” However, her version of tribal doesn’t resemble any we’ve seen before, and it certainly is an enormous and highly sophisticated departure from any of her previous work. Consider this collection an expansion of brand language, with tribal imparting only liminal meaning to her earthy prints and gorgeous raw fabric knitwear.
At this stage in Marant’s career, it’s a foregone conclusion that her presentation will be cool. That’s the foundation of the brand DNA. Yet, there is something much more interesting afoot for spring, something nervy and unique. It shakes out in her flirty monochrome frocks, with puzzle-piece prints, perforated fabrics, and unfinished hemlines. Minidresses take over the catwalk sporting visually appealing details like pulsating patterns on ruffled chiffon, gathered leather, tiered ruffles, and layered belts made from pleated leather. She follows them up with tone-on-tone separates covered with shaggy, bulky cardigans, before things give way to the monastic. While her plush dresses with fringe hemlines and braided rope belts carry a serene appeal, their construction is quite complex. Raw, woven fabrics transform the collection into something more down-to-earth, but their nomadic nature belies intricate handiwork. Marant’s scaled-back presentation for Spring/Summer 2015 takes her into new territory as a designer, and after seeing this collection, it is clear that she’s heading in the right direction.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree