Loewe’s specialty is luxury leather goods, and its expertise at crafting the material into seasonal must-haves is perhaps the most remarkable in the industry. For his first collection for the brand, Jonathan Anderson (of J. W. Anderson) was careful to respect the house’s history, all the while foraying into organic territory, blending unfinished woven fabrics and animal skins onto relaxed daywear looks. There was an incredible spirit of freedom and energy in Loewe’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection, as Anderson allowed his work to develop its own organic shapes by applying leaves of matching fabric at random on the silhouette. One showgoer joked that the shapes were reminiscent of cow print. Was it perhaps an ironic tribute to the brand’s leather heritage?
Asymmetrical cuts lent fluidity to the looks, as did the deliberately imperfect puncture wounds on skirts and the frayed hemlines that made beautiful knitwear pieces look as though they were about to unravel at a moment’s notice. The fluidity of the presentation was balanced out by a sort of Asian precision, which first came through in the martial arts belts tied around the waist of his colorful leather trousers and then in the simplicity of his garments. Anderson’s artisanal collection for Loewe found the line between respecting house codes and carving his initials in the brand aesthetic, and while we’re not sure how big a hit the baggy leather pants are going to be in the Middle East come summer, we’ll definitely be looking forward to some of his lighter looks.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree
