The naïve girl in a modest prairie dress. The gothic siren in a jet-black column gown made from a tapestry of lace and guipure. Rochas’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection pitted them against one another, one speaking the language of innocence, the other talking of things more sophisticated and worldly. If the show was a reflection on the evolution from girl to woman, designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua tied the whole thing together with a riff on high-school style. Perhaps because that is the key, pivotal moment in a young woman’s evolution?
The show began with an audacious moment, as a youthful model walked the runway in a breezy, sheer dress finished with a preppy collar and an “R” branded on the chest. The letter was reminiscent of varsity jackets, while tinsel-covered shoes recalled cheerleader pompoms. Dell’Acqua followed this memorable look with a twee babydoll slip worn over a fully crocheted blouse, and a sheer cover-up embroidered with little flowers. Soon the “transition” from young duckling to elegant swan was fully underway, with prairie dresses that were anything but modest, and georgette gowns featuring full silhouettes that floated above the body. At times, it felt like the designer couldn’t make up his mind. Was he making an innocent or carnal statement? Was this an intentional reflection on the multiple facets of both the girl and the woman? Overlooking the awkwardly positioned belts that appeared across models’ chest, the looks and textures on the Rochas runway were undeniably beautiful and they came across best in the moments when they were floating free.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree