To celebrate its 20-year anniversary, Marni hosted a one-off flower market in Milan, where beautiful blooms wrapped in Marni-printed paper were sold alongside floral carryalls. Amidst all the flower stalls were stands serving cool minestrone, chocolate-dipped dried apricots, and fried polenta breads. Adding to that the sweet scents of flowers floating through the air, the market was truly a feast for the senses. That same morning, Marni showcased a runway collection that was also in full bloom. Designer Consuelo Castiglioni expressed her appreciation of nature by rendering flowers in artistic forms on uniquely constructed separates, trenches, and dresses. With a palette that tested every shade in the crayon box, Marni’s perennial floral prints were showcased on avant-garde silhouettes and Asian-inspired shapes.
The show’s beginning, however, which focused on minimalist, Far East-inspired looks, couldn’t have been further from Marni’s florid finish. Serene kimono-sleeved, linen robes, and intricately engineered separates resembling martial-art uniforms (complete with Taekwondo black belts and platform sandals reminiscent of geta) were a nod to Japanese discipline and rigor. The monastic monochromes featured asymmetrical hemlines, pieced-together construction, and fine details lined with pleated cotton and peeking-out ruffles. Castiglioni started introducing her florals in the form of Japanese ink-wash art on a layered ruffle dress. Flowers soon became the focus of the collection, with a variety of artistic garden prints decorating trench coats, bombers, and coordinated separates. Brocade flowers closed the show, rendered on silk dresses with metallic accents. While flower-power mania has swept the Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 runway, Marni’s version felt more controlled and more heartfelt than on-trend.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree