The New School of androgyny has arrived on the fashion scene, and Jil Sander’s newly appointed head master, Rodolfo Paglialunga, has no tolerance for frills and frippery. For his first act, Paglialunga dismisses former Jil Sander tropes to return the style of the brand’s heyday – namely preppy, tomboyish clothes with low-key prints and crisp tailoring.
Part of the presentation riffed on school uniforms, with knee length shorts, wool skirts, vest-and-blouse combinations, and polo tops worn with socks and heeled loafers. There was an air of repression to it all, conjuring notions of secret rebellion. Paglialunga’s strongest ideas were in his quirky prints which featured deleted rows of geometry, and his off-balance color pairings. With flat, matte blocks of color cut into blunt shapes, the collection achieved a modernized silhouette. Bulky sleeves were also emphasized at times, which helped build androgyny into the looks. Paglialunga’s understated revamp of the Jil Sander brand was received with praise, and what’s even better than confidently producing a wearable collection is the fact that he provided a clear turning point for the brand.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree