With Fendi installed at its glamorous new headquarters at the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, guests at the Spring/Summer 2015 show were treated to a backdrop that recreated the architecture of its freshly christened address. The same imposing arches of the building were also represented in the clothes themselves, while the sky outside of Fendi’s windows formed the basis for the brand’s spring palette.
Fendi eschewed nostalgia in favor of tailoring elements that were modern and forward-thinking.
This season, Karl Lagerfeld had flowers on his mind – and more specifically orchids. But he looked at the flower in a far more literal way than he did back in Fall/Winter 2012. Instead of delving into the plant’s anatomy to borrow shapes, textures, and colors, he allowed it to form the core of his presentation, covering entire looks from head to toe or appearing affixed to his models’ hair. While other Italian fashion houses were caught in the fervor of 1970s revival, Fendi eschewed nostalgia in favor of tailoring elements that were modern and forward-thinking, like the fluid skirts with petal-like paneling, shrunken tops, and denim jodhpurs. Perforated plastic overlays and shiny plastic sheaths covered up crew neck tees and mini dresses, lending the presentation a shimmer that read super-feminine when presented in pastel tones, like baby blue and baby pink. In the closing eveningwear portion of the show, Fendi’s mini dresses sprouted organza feathers, which closed the show on a soft, angelic note.
As is often the case with the House of Fendi, the accessories are never an afterthought or a simple complement to the garments. Instead, they command as much attention and eyeball time as the clothes, with mini ‘Karlitos’, pastel-colored ‘Bag Bugs’, and tiny ‘Baguette’ bag charms adorned with monster faces threatening to steal the show more than once. Footwear was just as noteworthy this season, and Fendi’s holographic gladiator sandals are sure to be one of next season’s most coveted styles. Always one step ahead of the game, Fendi’s refusal to look to the past for influence will give us a lot to look forward to for the Spring/Summer 2015 season.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree