The overlap between irreverent style and couture elements created a nice juxtaposition of ideas at No. 21. Alessandro Dell’Acqua almost seemed to be teasing the audience with his youthful, blousy looks and sheer pajama-like separates. For instance, he had no qualms about sending down a sheer tartan frock incongruously riddled with gemstones, a tongue-in-cheek poke to the way upper echelons of society are trending toward normcore. You can take extravagant construction away from high society dames, but you can’t take their baubles.
The show begins with starchy camo green paired with eccentric duchesse satin mules – a sign of more offbeat looks to come. This season, Dell’Acqua casts his craft-obsession toward thick, overlapping embroidery blended with leaf-shaped patches of sequins. The result is stiff, gorgeous and oddly regal given that they come on such simple silhouettes. From there he begins to combine standalone elements into overall looks – layering together his glittering embroidered pieces with sheer tartan. For more conventional types, Dell’Acqua rewards a few prizes in the form of a lace slipdress, a smocked satin tunic dress, and an Oxford button-up paired with a lace skirt. In a city like Milan, where fashion’s history has extensive roots, it’s exciting to see No. 21 challenge the status quo with an unconventional collection. It’s even more exciting when the brand accomplishes this with the type of luxurious clothes we still want to wear.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree