London Fashion Week Coverage: Erdem Spring 2015 Collection

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Erdem spins a dark fantasy for Spring/Summer 2015, advanced on an embroidered floral motif that was downright exquisite. In some ways, he’s channeling Batman’s formidable opponent, Poison Ivy. The moment she survives the mixture of deadly herbs that are meant to kill her, vines reach out to braid her into their terrible grasp. She emerges immune to all toxins and diseases, with a deadly kiss for those who threaten her love of plants. Picture Poison Ivy, the kind of fierce creature that inspires awe, and you have something akin to the looks on Erdem’s spring runway. There’s even a look that makes this association literal with a stunning forest-green dress etched with embroidery that winds its way around the body and up the model’s throat.

Erdem’s Spring 2015 collection is as thrilling as a run through the jungle.

As treacherous as this all might sound, the end result is as beautiful as anything Erdem has ever created. A sort of nihilistic romance envelops his looks, especially those done in a nouveau-Edwardian silhouette. Against a synthetic greenhouse boscage, Erdem shows strappy slip dresses embroidered with blossoms, naive eyelet frocks, feathery separates, and maxi skirts decorated with a hodgepodge of appliqués and feathers. For day, there are a handful of simple, elegant looks. An olive-green, tapestry-embroidered dress with a windowpane cutout is a dream for a brunch date, while an unfinished tweedy look could be great for the workplace with the right jacket. However, most of the collection is relegated to the realm of eveningwear, with couture-like details making their lavish presence known on intricately woven fabrics, shocking lace confections, and tiered ruffle layers. For unhinged, wild beauty that shakes up something primal in the viewer, Erdem’s Spring/Summer 2015 collection is as thrilling as a run through the jungle.

Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree

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