Jonathan Saunders is a master printmaker and a master craftsman; after more than a decade at London Fashion Week, he is one of its top innovators. Spring/Summer 2015 elicited Saunders’ enthusiasm for a new technique in color blocking. While the paper-pressed blocking in this collection may have only been a fraction of the story, it was a telling fraction. Within this new technique is a hint of Saunders’ inspiration behind his springtime creations – the cool blue tapestry he weaves from paper color blocking is gorgeous and fragile. The delicate nature of this look is a theme that carries over to the entire presentation.
Another clue is in the opening sequence, which features lush suits dappled with orchid appliqués – something heavy married to something light. In a similar vein, starchy separates are worn with oversized pussy bows and waistlines are draped and wrapped with them as well. The appliquéd leaf motif from Fall 2013 returns, this time in lighter fabrics and stenciled onto crisp separates. A metallic skirt with an extreme bubble hem feels a little out of place amid this breezy ensemble cast, but it’s never mind to all that when we see what Saunders does with metallics later in the show. A liquid-gold slip dress, a color-blocked, copper-and-silver midi skirt, and a pewter mini underneath a sheer overlay add a glaze to otherwise matte proceedings, amping up the collection’s contemporary side. Meanwhile, cropped jackets, leafy dresses, and sheer layered frocks for evening round out Saunders’ presentation.
When Saunders takes on the challenge of developing a new print or material for his runway, he often ends up accidentally inspiring other designers to experiment. Spring/Summer 2015, is, once again, a notable collection that will be remembered for pioneering new methods in printmaking.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree