Mary Katrantzou, the hottest ticket at London Fashion Week, proved the merit of so much worship with a Spring/Summer 2015 collection that featured the best embroidery technique the London runways have ever seen. The inspiration for her latest triumph was the earth in its infantile stages, as belching volcanoes spewed lava into the sea to form land masses with grounds ever shifting on their tectonic plates to settle into present-day continents. Just as the body of the world emerged from the womb of the sea, the human form began to take shape over time to reflect the same kind of shifting plate backbones that cause us to walk upright today. From the earth to the human body, Katrantzou’s collection demonstrated our relationship to the shapes and textures of our world. Early looks featured tops and dresses made from sections that reminded one of how terra firma fit together when our young world was still mostly water.
Amid her more geographical pieces were moments that stunned: a pleated floor-sweeping vest in plain khaki satin, glittering mini dresses made from sprawling liquid-silver embroidery, and vascular branches printed atop contrasting silk separates. Katrantzou’s babydoll slip dresses were a little less thrilling, but no less lovely. Her closing looks were the most dazzling, with primordial beings etched into mini dresses with sequins, and sectioned gowns held together by sheer paneling. While it might have been easy for the high-minded concept of the collection to cloud Katrantzou’s output, it did the opposite: it crystallized what we were seeing, giving it depth and character. Spring/Summer 2015 asserted a lofty origin story, what with the beginning of the world and all, but in the end it demonstrated Katrantzou at her most restrained – at her finest, actually.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree