Now that Marc by Marc Jacobs resides in the skilled hands of Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley and Louis Vuitton is now helmed by the esteemed Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs is left to focus singularly on his pride and joy: his eponymous line, Marc Jacobs. For Spring/Summer 2015, the designer zeroed in on his street-meets-military mash-up with no other design distractions to beckon his attention away.
As guests filtered into the uptown Park Avenue Armory, they were greeted by two surprises: a set comprised of a giant Barbie Pink house and their own pair of Beats by Dre, where a digital tour of the collection offered the mesmerizing suggestion that each viewer was in their own private world. Although the neon-hued set prepared the audience for a technicolor collection, what Jacobs rendered was far more subdued. Out marched his military-inspired ensembles in somber neutrals decorated with rows and rows of buttons and oval-shaped jewels. There were kitschy jumpsuits, cargo pants, coordinated separates, parkas, and flirty mini dresses, but each came decorated with strange, egg-like shapes. Another eccentric effect of Jacobs’ show was his choice to show models barefaced, free of any makeup whatsoever, and all in matching mop-top wigs. The models felt like clones, marching across the stage in front of a glowing, saccharine set. It felt downright Lynchian, maybe with a pinch of Kubrick and a sprinkle of Herzog thrown in. It was clear that Jacobs achieved something rather singular for Spring/Summer 2015. After all the strange notions and artful ensembles on his runway, we know that this isn’t a collection anyone will soon forget.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree