“Neutral, minimal, rinse, repeat” have long been instructions on the proverbial Calvin Klein bottle, but Spring/Summer 2015 brought with it a stylish new attitude. For maybe the first time ever on Francisco Costa’s runway for Calvin Klein, we saw a silhouette that was curvy, which the designer enhanced with fitted waistlines, fluid skirts, and tailored outerwear.
Punctual navy dresses opened the collection, decorated with a hint of beading and slim belts. Instead of the popular patchwork trend, Costa used subdued color blocking on his looks in shades of navy, cream, and black. He also excelled in engineering perfectly proportioned looks with the use of flared hemlines and perfectly stacked layering. For instance, there were more than a few pairs of flared, cropped trousers in this collection, which usually is risky because they have an odd fit that is somewhere between capris and culottes. Yet, Costa cut the risk immediately by smartly pairing them with a suede fit-and-flare jacket, so that the top, middle, and bottom curve of the silhouette worked in tandem.
Outerwear was a triumph of gorgeous, glossy navy and liquid-black leather; that navy jacket alone was worth sitting through the entire show to see. The first half of the collection felt more restrained and buttoned up, but towards the middle Costa traded in the precise for the relaxed with a series of “wet look”, shimmering party dresses and sleeveless tunic tops. For Spring/Summer 2015, the attitude at Calvin Klein was breezy and casual in the best way possible, with minimal looks that radiated effortless luxury.
Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree