While springtime heralds bright palettes of pastels and candy colors and light, airy fabrics, Vera Wang decided to head in a much more somber direction this season. Her Spring/Summer 2015 collection was dense with black wool and worked from a “boyish boudoir” and “baby bohemian” theme.
It’s certain that every woman needs a little black dress, or a workwear-appropriate combination like Wang’s sleeveless wool tops and matching trousers, but there wasn’t a specific need to show so many looks with so little variation between them. However, Wang excelled when she left behind heavyweight materials and cookie-cutter looks made from tiered lampshade pleats and embroidery. Sheer overlays bedecked with galactic crystal teased shine from her micro-mini dresses, and gold brocade added a baroque quality to the proceedings. Her sheer maxi dresses with polka-dot and floral lining were given a serious twist when paired with hip vests and boleros, which all featured overlapping asymmetric bodices. Her breezy maxis for evening were one of the few moments where springtime optimism was allowed to bloom, but the show still ended on a funereal note with a floor-scraping black crêpe gown. Although Wang went against the tide of seasonal trends, we can’t fault her for so much wool and weight. After all, winter seems to linger even longer nowadays.
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