New York Fashion Week Coverage: Derek Lam Spring 2015 Collection

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Back in the 1960s and 1970s, the state of American youth culture was in an uproar and style was radical for the times. For Spring/Summer 2015, Derek Lam turns his attention to the cool, bohemian fashions of those two decades, but instead of an uproar he delivers a calm, cool collection of sophisticated separates that emphasize the highlights of American sportswear during that era. His soundtrack by Joni Mitchell helped recall the iconic fashions of early Cher and Buffy Sainte-Marie, who favored looks like his high-waisted pants and elongated jackets.

Naturally, Lam approaches the season with a sense of refinement, pairing down the lines of patchworked separates and flared trousers. His saturated suedes are the central thesis of the collection and were wonderfully rendered in shades of lavender, royal purple, jade, and cobalt blue. Toward the end of the presentation, Lam moves away from retro references to embrace a contemporary motif that pressed molded bodices over tank tops and emphasized the busts with curving rows of grommets. This blend of old- and new-school cool proves that vintage silhouettes still have their place in fashion today.

Photos: Courtesy of Imaxtree

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