Paris Fashion Week, the last leg of fashion month, is always the longest. This final, if somewhat hectic week, with an eclectic mix of veteran designers, couturiers, and emerging labels is the one we look forward to the most. On days one and two, Marine Serre presented a collection using recycled fabrics from items like tea towels and tablecloths. At Kimhekim, the designer took inspiration from a wooden canvas frame and sent down silhouettes printed with the motif. Meanwhile, Mrs Keepa‘s collection was filled with dramatic sleeves and eye-catching daywear with lots of colors.
Check back daily for all of the happenings of Fashion Month, as we review the top collections from New York, London, Milan, and Paris.
Marine Serre is perhaps one of the coolest young labels to showcase at PFW. The designer, who previously worked at Balenciaga under Demna Gvasalia, launched her eponymous label in 2017 and took social media by storm. Her crescent moon-printed figure-hugging bodysuits have been worn by A-list celebrities such as Kylie Jenner and Beyoncé, and the label has gained a cult following. Her aesthetic combines classic French couture shapes with sportswear and a mix of cultural references. Sustainability is also one of the label’s key components, so it comes as no surprise that 45 percent of her spring collection was made from recycled materials. Linen tea towels, embroidered tablecloths, and even bath towels were transformed into beautiful garments. Case in point: The white lab coat-style jacket with red stripes and the white wrap skirt were among our favorites.
Elsewhere, textured popcorn fabric was used to make those eccentric printed tops and dresses in bright colors. The designer also made a strong case for mismatched prints — a dress made from upcycled scarves was both cool and kitschy. Her signature bodysuit got an update too, featuring trippy motifs instead of moons. The standout look? A pair of cycling shorts teamed with a denim jacket featuring the moon print on the sleeves and collar.
South Korean designer Kiminte Kimhekim has found his footing in Paris, and quite comfortably at that. The designer, known for his futuristic take on fashion, presented an energetic spring collection with some seriously covetable pieces and enviable workwear. Titled ‘Women in Canvas‘, the garments featured a recurring motif of a wooden canvas frame with staples. There were monogrammed slip tops, dresses, cycling shorts, and slouchy blouses with this motif. A minimalist white shirt was gathered at the side with a gold buckle in the shape of the canvas frame – and it was pure poetry.
Elsewhere, there were his non-traditional versions of suits that were both sophisticated and edgy. Case in point: a white double-breasted blazer with sculptural sleeves and a peplum that was paired with bootcut pants and a loosely cut beige blazer fastened on the side with oversized pearls teamed with trousers that were pleated from the knee down. Easy-to-wear separates included monogrammed tees, shirts with large square cutouts, denim shorts, and fun skirt sets. And what’s a Kimhekim collection be without his signature organza silhouettes? Romantic and artisanal, the white organza jacket paired with a voluminous matching skirt with white piping was dreamy with a splash of eccentricity.
Please don’t mind us if we brag a little, but Mrs. Keepa is a label we are extremely proud of. The Dubai-based brand is the brainchild of Mariam Yeya, who was invited to showcase her Spring/Summer 2022 collection, titled ‘Harmonious Chaos‘, at PFW. Known for her “more is more” aesthetic her designs are often architectural and avant-garde while still being wearable. For the upcoming season, silhouettes were dramatic, proportions were voluminous, and colors were plentiful. Utilitarian cargo pants were paired with a multicolored bra top, while luxe drawstring pants were worn under a cropped, high-neck cape-style blouse.
Elsewhere, there were statement sleeves. Case in point: a boxy shirt with extra-wide sleeves, a high-necked polka-dotted cropped top with larger-than-life sleeves, and a blouse with balloon sleeves were among our favorites. There was occasionwear, too: A black, midriff-baring blouse was teamed with a risqué long skirt featuring cutouts in the pelvic area, and a gorgeous asymmetrical one-shoulder evening dress earned full marks. Yeya loves to play with color, so there was a lot of playful day ear – flowy shirt dresses, slip dresses, and blouses, all with a kaleidoscope of prints injected with hyper color. Overall, the silhouettes reflected Yeya’s multicultural personality and effortless sense of style – and we loved it.