Day three of London Fashion Week continued with designers presenting collections inspired by the carefree pre-pandemic days. At Erdem, there were Edwardian and Victorian silhouettes with a modern twist, Rejina Pyo sent down some knockout sustainable swimwear in acidic colors, and Roland Mouret made a strong case for relaxed yet high-impact occasion wear.
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Erdem Moralioğlu sent down a hauntingly beautiful array of clothes for his show, which also marked the 15th anniversary of his eponymous label. The designer was inspired by the avant-garde poet Edith Sitwell and the aristocrat Lady Ottoline Morrell – both of whom were flamboyant dressers. Edwardian silhouettes in the form of cotton eyelet dresses floated down the runway – a white pleated shirt dress and a floral dress with a high neckline and cascading ruffles at the hem were our favorites.
There was a maxi skirt suit, reminiscent of women’s horse riding attire in the 1930s (think Lady Mary Crawley sidesaddle riding into Downton Abbey), except the skirt was less voluminous than it was back then. What followed were a series of looks consisting of fishtail skirts with Moralioğlu’s signature wallpaper prints, paired with cartwheel hats. Eveningwear came in the form of cinched dresses with a dramatic bow at the waist. Despite the Edwardian references, the designer managed to keep the clothes relevant circa now. The ruffled high-neck dresses, the billowy garden party skirt, Victorian sleeves, and bustier tops are exactly what high-street labels will copy next spring.
It’s official, for our next beach getaway, we are buying into Rejina Pyo’s spring collection. Who wouldn’t mind strolling the beaches of Saint Tropez in her candy-colored swimwear made from recycled Italian nylon? Elsewhere, we saw the designer move away from her traditional structured looks and take a softer approach to design. Feminine looks came in the form of sheer skirts, shirts, and cutout tops.
Pyo also experimented with prints – photos of New York and Seoul that she took as a teenager were featured on skirts, tops, and knitwear. Other prints included a mouse with a piece of bread — inspired by her four-year-old son’s storybook – on a slip dress, the motif was mixed with other eccentric prints, adding a touch of whimsy to the look. There were tailored dresses with oversized collars and blouses with ruched sleeves that rated high on wearability. All in all, the collection was a fresh take on Pyo’s aesthetic and one that will do well commercially.
Roland Mouret’s vision for his collection was based on the new way women live their lives and dress post-pandemic. The silhouettes were relaxed, with easy-to-wear dresses and trousers that came with an elastic waist. There was a strong focus on transitional separates – a mint green top with a bow neckline, a yellow blouse with a fiery red pocket, and a lavender knit top with an open back were standouts. Mouret’s occasionwear was easy-going too – an emerald green caped taffeta bodice paired with slim-fit trousers and a black evening gown with geo sequins were among our favorites. Another exceptional piece was the sequined jumpsuit, featuring a fall that only Mouret could master.
Day dresses in a color palette inspired by the South of France and Greece were plenty too. A sunset orange tank dress with ruffles down the back and a baby blue v-neck mini dress were pieces that will always cheer you up. A kaftan with a colorful print inspired by the patterns we make in the sand is definitely one we’d like to wear for a chic daytime occasion. The cherry on top? His new premium athleisure line, Roland Mouret Body, will launch next month. We can’t wait to work out in RM.