The recurring theme of elevated sportswear and comfortable fashion continued into day five of NYFW. Tory Burch drew inspiration for her collection from legendary designer Claire McCardell, a pioneer of American sportswear. Joseph Altuzarra referenced portraits of pagan rituals from Charles Fréger‘s book Wilder Mann for a series of bohemian dresses. Meanwhile, Tom Ford closed Fashion Week with a collection that left us gasping for breath: with its ‘more is more’ aesthetic, this was NYFW’s most glorious show.
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After a brief period of showcasing his collections in Paris, Joseph Altuzarra is officially back on the New York calendar. He presented a compelling collection with an array of elevated separates that were both timeless and trendy. The designer revisited the shibori print and sent down wrap-skirts and dresses featuring the Japanese tie-dye technique. Particular attention was paid to pleated details, and so there were multiple micro-pleated garments through the show. A maxi skirt set with a matching midriff-baring blouse and a gold lamé plissé skirt set are looks we can’t get out of our heads. Elsewhere, there were dresses with crochet overlays, crochet tops with fringed hems, and bohemian-style belts with coin charms. For the minimalist client, a white shirt dress paired with linen pants will surely be a hit.
Altuzarra also referenced a series of photographs of pagan rituals across Europe for the upcoming season. The show closed with handkerchief-hemmed evening dresses featuring beaded hems and tassel detailing. The white dress in particular, with its crochet overlay, was reminiscent of what a pagan goddess might have worn to celebrate the onset of spring.
Tory Burch’s collection was a tribute to Claire McCardell, one of America’s most influential sportswear designers. A pioneer in American fashion, McCardell was known for designing clothing that liberated American women and gave them the freedom of movement they needed to join the workforce. Burch presented a collection with strong shapes, easy-to-wear designs, lots of color-blocking, and mismatched prints. There were maxi dresses in a juxtaposition of colors with hook-eye closures that looked equally chic and comfortable. Dresses were cinched at the waist with knit corsets and looked effortless. Case in point: a silk-chiffon number with a yellow bodice and multi-color Madras plaid skirt. Elsewhere, the waists of trousers and skirts were defined with similar tech-knit bandeaus.
There were stretch mocknecks paired with voluminous skirts and accessorized with an artisanal silver plaque. A honeycomb-eyelet cotton skirt and a striped poplin skirt were among our favorites. The tops were fun too — an aubergine sailor shirt came with contrasting topstitching, whereas the colorful reversible jersey tops were ruched on one side and had hanging laces. While this was a strong collection, we were a little disappointed by the lack of larger sizes on the runway, something most designers have offered this season.
Satin, sequins, lamé, and hundreds of gold chains — Tom Ford’s spring show was all about glorious excess, and we devoured it. Low-slung joggers came in satin and lace, and cargo pants in acid colors were held together with monogrammed Tom Ford belts. Basketball shorts got a glamorous update and sparkled with sequins. A look featuring purple pants with satin stripes down the side paired with a rust-colored tank and a shocking pink blazer was one we can’t stop thinking about. There were sexy knotted sequined shirts and logo sports bras, as well as oversized blazers and neoprene jackets.
Excess came in the form of jackets embellished with gold chains and models wearing multiple layers of them around their necks — a nod to 90s hip-hop dressing. Ford also made a strong case for bringing back head-to-toe leopard print. Case in point: the leopard-print shorts paired with a matching jacket and gold tank. The highlight of the show was his revival of the iconic red velvet pantsuit he designed for Gucci in 1996, worn by Gwyneth Paltrow at the MTV Awards. This time, however, it came in bright pink, with a loose cut and shorts. And the metallic ribbed knits that ended the show? Well, they were just pure gold.