Editors, street-style photographers, buyers, and influencers all gathered in the same place last week: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi (MBFWT). Following the massive success of Tbilisi’s very own Demna Gvasalia, the bustling Georgian city has continued to produce some highly sought-after brands, serving us with impeccable tailoring, innovative silhouettes, and all things leather. With the cool crowd trading in Alexander Wang for Aleksandre Akhalkatsishvili, we break down the five Georgian brands worth getting acquainted with – and fast.
Matériel
Balancing tailoring and femininity, Matériel has quickly become one of MBFWT’s biggest success stories. Recently worn by Kourtney Kardashian and picked up by the likes of Net-a-Porter and Browns, this Tbilisi-based brand is unique in its collective approach to design.
Now under the creative direction of Aleksandre Akhalkatsishvili and Lado Bokuchava (both also designing for their own labels), the brand is known to hone the talents of many Georgian designers, giving them a platform to express their vision. Its recent Fall/Winter 2019 show gave us soft colors, bold silhouettes, and an unexpected take on closet staples from blazers to trench coats – and frankly, we want to wear every look.
Georges Keburia
Kitschy, fun, and effortlessly cool – you can literally feel the love with George Keburia’s latest collection. The mood was romantic and heartbroken all at once, considering models walked down the runway wearing feathered tears and heart motifs aplenty.
Keburia rose to fame when fashion’s “It” girls – Gigi Hadid and Rihanna included – started wearing his sunglasses. However, the true genius of his eponymous label lies in the designer’s ability to interpret fantasy and femininity in playful and provocative silhouettes.
Dalood
The 80s are back in full swing with Dalood’s FW19 presentation. Set in a spiral-shaped parking garage, designer Maka Kvitsiani set out to demonstrate the stark contrast between glamour and grunge. Between the big shoulders, sequined denim, and suit dresses, you can find an outfit for any occasion within this collection. We already have.
Situationist
Think of Situationist as the dark horse of MBFWT. The contemporary brand blurs the line between masculine and feminine, offering wardrobe staples that feel effortlessly cool. Whether it be an asymmetrical zip or a naval cut-out, Situationist reinterprets everyday clothing with a fresh take and forward-thinking eye – seasonal trends need not apply. It has already become a go-to for celebrities like Olivia Culpo and Kelly Rowland, making it one of the most popular brands currently based in Tbilisi.
Anouki
Travel, but make it fashion. Anouki’s Fall/Winter 2019 show was nothing short of spectacular, set in a hangar at the airport, with models walking around and into a private airplane, showing us all how to travel in style. Launching her label in 2013, designer Anouki Areshidze set out to make special pieces that will make any woman who wears them “sparkle”.
The brand’s signature piece is a trench coat decorated with sparkly sequins hidden within the tailored pleats. Since then, Anouki’s designs have continued to surprise us with unexpected details and a new take on modern femininity.