Take a Walk Through a Winter Garden with Givenchy Fall/Winter 2019

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Did the Garden of Eden even have seasons? If it did – and its inhabitants decided to wear clothes – winter might look a little something like this. For Givenchy Fall/Winter 2019, Clare Waight Keller was inspired by the concept of the Garden of Eden in winter, after a gray chill had stolen some of the garden’s beatific luster. This meant a sober turn towards sturdy, sharply tailored neutrals punctuated by a brilliant array of floral-print pieces uniquely featuring Fortuny plissé pleat construction with scalloped hems.

The collection is a stunning walk through a garden that has two sides: dark and light. There are, of course, airy floral looks that expand and contract in person due to their knife-pleated engineering. These are complemented by judicious pops of color paired with handsome tweeds – a peek of salmon pink, a shot of royal blue, kelly green from top to toe. It was nice, and kept things from feeling too formal, as did an array of cool denim vests and jackets. 

Photo: Courtesy of Imaxtree

On the dark side were strong silhouettes and noir tones. Everyone is doing the power shoulder for Fall/Winter 2019, but Keller is doing them differently. Instead of providing the strong silhouette by way of pattern-cutting, her shoulder is amplified by the addition of a little lip of fabric that stands up along the seam of the shoulder. Clever girl.

Her dark, brooding romanticism has turned Givenchy into a house more known for its incredible silhouettes than its gothic streetwear.

Big puffball shoulders also confirmed the collection’s strong-minded identity – these Givenchy women are ready to go from the boardroom to a ballroom at a moment’s notice. A smattering of crystal paillettes was used to amplify some of the eveningwear, which was so beautifully made to begin with that the embellishment was just the icing on the cake.

After the flou of her Chloé reign, Keller has surprised us by becoming one of the strongest tailors on the Paris Fashion Week schedule. Her debut couture collection was unimpeachable perfection, trimmed with shocks of ombre ruffles, glitter, and feathers – and she has continued to impress ever since. Her dark, brooding romanticism has turned Givenchy into a house more known for its incredible silhouettes than its gothic streetwear. To that end, we are grateful.

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