Chloé Pays Homage Through Bohemia Reinterpreted for Fall/Winter 2019

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Creative Director Natacha Ramsay-Levi has been killing it at Chloé. The transition between Ramsay-Levi (who learned the fashion trade by the side of none other than Nicolas Ghesquière) and her predecessor Clare Waight Keller (now at Givenchy) was smoother than most. During her tenure, Ramsay-Levi has replaced the flou and frippery of Waight Keller’s boho Chloé with more eclectic designs, the kind of stuff that fashion girls still flock to, but so do women for whom bohemia is antithetical. With Ramsay-Levi’s guidance, the Chloé girl has grown up.

Photo: Courtesy of Imaxtree

But the recent passing of Karl Lagerfeld – who was installed as Chloé’s designer in 1963 and worked a cumulative 25 years at the house – had Ramsay-Levi feeling nostalgic. On that note, she was keen to introduce a bit of boho back to the dance. Lagerfeld’s body of work included a lot of twee frocks, pinafore dresses, and boldly printed gowns.

Interpretative design is tricky, but Chloé proved that its Creative Director is up to the task.

However, Chloé’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection is an homage to Lagerfeld, not a reproduction of his work, which meant it was translated through Ramsay-Levi’s strong point of view. While dresses were unstructured, delicately printed, and occasionally wreathed in ruffles, they still felt sturdy. The blouses were billowy and sheer, but they came paired with sophisticated wrap skirts and stiff denim trousers.

She managed to make the vernacular of the 1960s and 1970s very “now” through equestrian detailing, cool wrap effects, and smart layering. Accessories also boosted the modernity of the collection, especially in the case of Chloé’s artful statement necklaces, tabbed sock-boot hybrids, and color-blocked bags bearing massive “C” logos. Interpretative design is tricky and can very easily veer off course, but Chloé proved that its Creative Director is up to the task.

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