The Spirit of Dance Invades Dior’s Spring/Summer 2019 Line-Up

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A fashion presentation is more than a chance to show clothes; it’s a chance to tell a story, create an experience. At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri anchors all of her collections in narratives that support the codes she has established during her tenure. Artistry, identity politics, and femininity are very much at the core of what she’s selling, and a contemporary dance-infused show for Spring/Summer 2019 braided all three tenets together into one cohesive whole.

As bodysuit-clad dancers, choreographed by Sharon Eyal, moved to a metronome click backed by orchestra music, the looks criss-crossed the cavernous space inside the Hippodrome de Longchamp. Soft white petals fell from above, and combined with the dancing and the model walks, there was a lot to look at during the show.

Photo: Courtesy of Imaxtree

When you think about the modern house of Dior, you’re likely conjuring images of Bella Hadid glamorously clad in an embroidered corset dress with a sheer tulle skirt. This is a dominant Dior template under Grazia Chiuri’s direction, and it has become a through-line in her collections. For Spring/Summer 2019, she swaps the tight, corseted bodice for a simple tank, offering a gentle, balletic spin on the look. As women are increasingly demanding more comfort from their clothes, it was a good time to change it up.

Aside from a line-up of soft, swishy dresses – some bearing Grecian drapery and others sparkly embroidery and lace accents – Dior offered lots of options for day. This portion of the presentation was injected with the language of past collections. For instance, Dior’s 1960s rebel girl from last season was present here in embroidered khaki green separates, acid wash denim and tie-dyed silk slips. Meanwhile, Grazia Chiuri’s celebration of female artists like Niki de Saint Phalle (Spring/Summer 2018), Georgia O’Keeffe (Cruise 2018) and the incredible dancers she cited for today’s presentation — Loïe Fuller, Isadora Duncan, Martha Graham, and Pina Bausch — were present in the spirit of the clothes and the way they moved so freely.

How fitting that this might be her swan song.

Ahead of the show, rumors began to circulate that this, perhaps, was Maria Grazia Chiuri’s last collection for Dior. (Let it be said that this is a frequent topic of speculation in the industry and should be taken with a grain of salt.) However, when one considers the sonorous movement of the collection, and the emotional, dance-inspired direction of the show, how fitting that this might be her swan song.

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