For Fall/Winter 2018 at Miu Miu, the big talk surrounded Elle Fanning, who opened and closed the show. As a longtime ambassador for the brand, it was Fanning’s first time to ever appear on a runway, but she was a natural. No doubt she learned a thing or two from playing a model in Neon Demon. Fanning’s adaptability on screen makes her an asset on the catwalk because she so effortlessly embodied the “character” prescribed by Miuccia Prada – the rebel youth. Attuned to kitsch signatures from the 1960s and 1980s – two eras that couldn’t be more different with regard to their respective styles – Prada transformed retro staples into fantastic new combinations for the forthcoming season.
With teased, beehive hairdos and cat-flick eyeliner, models walked the runway in reworked wardrobe staples from the past. Early on, there were acid-washed denim looks styled with double belts and fuzzy mohair sweaters that earned a raised eyebrow from veteran attendees who already survived the worst that the 80s had to offer. A more successful invention was Miu Miu’s parade of thick, round-shouldered outerwear, done with puff shoulders in thick tweeds or liquid leather.
It convinced us that a 1980s comeback wouldn’t be such a bad idea.
On the 1960s side, there were printed sheaths, some featuring the new, bespoke Miu Miu typeface, which illustrated the ABCs of “actions, comportment, and behaviors”. The typeface, created by MM Paris, also acted as the show’s backdrop, surrounding us on all sides. Embroidered wiggle dresses were in the mix, as well as a variety of extreme mini dresses and mini skirts done in bright leathers. Drawing on two bygone decades that have been plucked clean for references by fashion designers, Miu Miu actually landed on some fresh and fetching propositions for Fall/Winter 2018. It also helped to see how the retro-inspired designs looked on stars like Adwoa Aboah and Elle Fanning – it convinced us that a 1980s comeback wouldn’t be such a bad idea.