After studying alongside Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton, Chloé’s new Creative Director, Natacha Ramsay-Levi, hit upon success with her debut collection for the brand by fearlessly setting Chloé in a less bohemian, more polished direction. With a strong foundation established, Ramsay-Levi could now build.
For Fall/Winter 2018, her sophomore presentation was a relaxed-but-aloof reworking of 1970s styles filled with long, drop-waist silk dresses and handsome equestrian elements. Interrupted by peekaboo cutouts and rounded off by ruffles, lace, and pleats, the collection boasted an insouciant, feminine attitude.
Interrupted by peekaboo cutouts and rounded off by ruffles, lace, and pleats, the collection boasted an insouciant, feminine attitude.
Dresses were the nucleus of the collection, and Ramsay-Levi’s construction of them was unusual – but very cool. They looked like they were made from three separate pieces but were actually one conjoined whole, featuring a deep V-neck plunge, 1970s lapels, and slashed skirts. Worn with big, chunky gold jewelry, sporty thigh-high logo socks, and strappy boots, the look was edgier than expected.
Dropped waistlines and cutouts at the hips and shoulders lent the dresses beautiful, eye-catching movement. Some dresses were edged in lace, some were made from Western shirts, and some were paired with smart blazers while others were worn over cropped mock turtlenecks. Several outerwear pieces shot to the top of our must-have list, particularly in the case of a loose trench with a handkerchief hemline, a hairy Cruella de Vil coat, and a gorgeous, thick, shearling-lined bomber jacket. The only drawback of the collection was that it would have been better served by a less earthy palette.
The equestrian theme appeared on coats and jackets as a tiny rearing horse emblem and in a variety of sporty jodhpurs, some of which were trimmed down the flank with goat fur. Typically, jodhpurs are not the easiest look to pull off, but at the finale, Ramsay-Levi emerged wearing a pair, acting as her own advertisement for how they would look on the average woman. As it turns out, they look fantastic.