Six months later and we’re still talking about Versace’s amazing tribute to Gianni Versace last season. It had everything: a supermodel reunion, a devastating cast, and all of Gianni’s archival best reborn for the Spring/Summer 2018 season. The question is, after walking away with the best show at fashion week, where do you go from there?
For Fall/Winter 2018, Donatella Versace doubled down on last season’s successes, by extending them to include her own archival reprisal. Previously, she simply remade Gianni’s greatest hits, but this season she reinterprets them her own way – his influence was present, but it was her voice that rang the loudest. It was exactly the right follow-up move to make.
This is a collection for women who don’t ask for permission. It was polished, but supremely edgy, and it got edgier as the show went on. For the first time in 15 years, Natalia Vodianova returned to the catwalk in a gorgeous, glossy Oxblood leather jacket (the last time she was on the catwalk was Versace Fall/Winter 2003). It was a tame start for a show that would soon explode with kaleidoscopic baroque prints, gilded Versace logos, and multi-colored madras patterns – sometimes contained in a single look.
It looks like Versace has nowhere to go but up.
Clashing plaids in bold, primary colors instantly recalled Cher Horowitz’s iconic yellow plaid look from the 90s coming-of-age movie Clueless, and we are so not mad about that. However, Versace’s versions were less preppy and more sassy, often combined with tough, leather moto pieces outlined in micro studs. Speaking of micro studs, Versace’s astonishing array of footwear – noteworthy in and of itself – glittered with well-placed embellishment.
Versace also presented poofy, draped ball gowns with plain logo tees and leather bustiers, an awesome quilted parka lined with kaleidoscopic printed silk and finished with enormous bow at the throat, slinky LBDs, a tuxedo suit with lemon yellow lapels, and a few evening looks made from an unidentified black, corrugated material. With a rainbow of vivid looks, some in tinsel fringe and others in printed silk, closing the show, things ended on a high note. But then again, they started on a high note. It looks like Versace has nowhere to go but up.