Behind the scenes at Fendi, the brand saw a reshuffling of its corporate command structure with Serge Brunschwig replacing Pietro Beccari as the new Chairman and Chief Executive, but at the show today it was business as usual – with business being the operative word. Last season, Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi explored the concept of power dressing as a way of supporting women’s increasingly visible demand for equality in the workplace. For Fall/Winter 2018, they retread the idea with an even more polished approach, to sublime results.
The collection centered on workwear and outerwear, but the motifs employed were myriad. Hints of sportiness were found in track-striped wool trousers and oversized logo sweatshirts, and Wild West styling came by way of monogrammed neckerchiefs and reptile skin cowboy boots. Meanwhile, the era that birthed the concept of power dressing – the 1980s – supplied the collection’s structured shoulder, oversized fits, and boxy silhouettes. Finally, Anglomania informed the use of Glen plaid and Prince of Wales wool fabrics used to created Fendi’s sharply tailored separates and magnificent outerwear selection. Glazed finishes on some looks brought a hypermodern quality to the runway, proving that plastic is a trend that has staying power through the end of the year.
Fendi’s self-assured women are a potent symbol of where we are headed as far as social progress – it’s not just a “man’s world” any longer.
In contrast to the collection’s strong silhouettes, a variety of romantic, fair-maiden looks were introduced toward the end, done in cape-sleeved frocks with bespoke embroidery – a sharp departure from Fendi’s business-like attire. Eveningwear was especially lovely, with both fringed and velvet capes closing the show to dramatic effect. Fendi’s self-assured women are a potent symbol of where we are headed as far as social progress – it’s not just a “man’s world” any longer. It was validating to see the point illustrated so beautifully.