For the past two seasons – Spring/Summer 2018 and Resort 2018 – Bottega Veneta has been engaged with a full-on experiment in color theory. It started off with subdued, muted pastels for spring and carried through with more vibrant tones for Resort. Now, Fall/Winter 2018 has arrived, and the results are eye-popping.
With a new Madison Avenue flagship store as the Italian brand’s raison d’etre on the New York Fashion Week calendar this time around, Tomas Maier looked to embolden his luxurious collection with hints of the Big Apple’s stunning skyscrapers. This was echoed in a geometric motif that was repeated throughout the collection on leather sheath dresses, wool frocks, silky slips, and cozy knit sweaters. In so doing, Maier married a new environment to the bedrock foundation of Bottega Veneta’s refined, Made-in-Italy outlook.
Located at the American Stock Exchange, guests were invited into a posh living room setting, complete with Bottega Veneta couches and John Chamberlain-designed abstract sculptures. The edges of the venue were darkened, allowing the multi-colored presentation at the center to really pop.
One of the most cheerful winter collections in recent memory.
While some Bottega Veneta collections have proceeded quietly, this one felt more energetic, thanks to its technicolor upholstery. Yet, the clothes were relaxed – in fact, they all looked downright cozy – and imbued with incredible ease. From silk pajamas and dusters to structured jackets with cut-away middles and subtly frilled peasant dresses, this collection had enough complementary pieces to build an entire capsule wardrobe out of.
In what was one of the most cheerful winter collections in recent memory, Maier liberally splashed his louche pajama suits, elongated outerwear, daywear separates, and evening dresses with primary colors, jewel tones, soft pastels – the whole spectrum was represented in one way or another.
Speaking of representation, diversity was rampant on the runway as well, featuring both womenswear and menswear, and dozens of models-of-color, including Binx Walton, Adut Akech, Aube Jolicoeur, Adwoa Aboah, and Theresa Hayes. It made the collection feel very “now” and very necessary.