The fashion landscape has shifted rapidly, evidenced by how different the Fashion Week calendar now looks. Not only have most of the major brands – Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, and Thom Browne included – opted to no longer show at New York Fashion Week, but plenty of others have also decided either to show off-calendar or stage small, intimate shows instead.
Not only that, but the collections we know and love are changing their look as the result of new directorial direction. Burberry is currently sans Creative Director after the departure of Christopher Bailey, while others like Helmut Lang are embracing a new-creative-director-per-season mantra that shifts the aesthetic focus according to whoever is in charge at the moment. With all changes considered, there is a lot to look forward to. For the four shows that we’re looking forward to most in the weeks ahead, check out our round-up and reasons below.
Phoebe Philo's Last Show for Céline
Before LVMH’s massive commercial ambitions for Céline take hold, we have one more season of designs by the gifted Phoebe Philo to look forward to. The fashion world was shocked by the news that Hedi Slimane – he of the skinny-jean-and-leather-jacket look that launched Saint Laurent’s sales into the stratosphere – would be replacing Philo, one of the industry’s most elusive designers.
Yet, LVMH made no secret of the fact that it wanted to make Céline more commercially viable. When it comes to business, the bottom line will always supersede the creative watermark. Philo built on niche elements to establish a distinct and often-copied maximal/minimal hybrid aesthetic, offering the kind of clothes that women of all types enjoy wearing – and the thought of her departure is none too pleasant for fans of Céline. Fall/Winter 2018 will be the last collection that she designs for the brand, marking it as one we look forward to with both great anticipation and sorrow.
Tommy Takes Milan
For the past few seasons, Tommy Hilfiger has refused to settle down. Having absconded from the New York Fashion Week calendar, the American sportswear designer has decided to show “outside the box” presentations in Los Angeles and London. He now has his sights set on Milan Fashion Week, where he will show his enormous, consumer-facing collection on February 25th.
While previous big-budget themes have included “TommyPier” in New York and “Rock Circus” in London, there is no word yet on what this season’s focus will be. His show will include menswear, womenswear, and a fourth collaborative capsule collection with his favorite supermodel, Gigi Hadid.
Bottega Veneta's Surprise Appearance on the NYFW Schedule
With many longtime New York brands like Proenza Schouler and Rodarte no longer showing on the New York Fashion Week schedule, a surprise newcomer was a welcome sight. Coinciding with the launch of a new boutique on Madison Avenue, Bottega Veneta will show a special presentation at NYFW for Fall/Winter 2018. The show will take place inside the American Stock Exchange on February 9th.
Narciso Rodriguez's 20th Anniversary Show
Narciso Rodriguez’s name first landed on the fashion pack’s lips in the late 90s, when he designed a wedding dress for his friend Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy. Twenty years later, he is still known for designs devoted to elevating and worshipping the female form, and most noted for his exquisitely constructed dresses and minimalist design aesthetic.
In celebration of his 20-year anniversary, Rodriguez will be showing a special, intimate runway presentation at New York Fashion Week. He has also opened his archives to revive 20 of his most famous designs, all of which are now on sale exclusively at Barneys New York.