Giambattista Valli Dabbles in Menswear for Spring/Summer 2018

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Giambattista Valli has never met a ruffle he didn’t like, but even his well-defined feminine aesthetic can evolve. While other designers suffer the fate of one-note collections, Valli tries for variation. For instance, his surprising use of dark indigo denim and menswear elements on what is usually an extremely feminine catwalk was atypical but not unwelcome.

Out first was a series of layered day looks that teamed lovely embroidered fabrics with cropped sweater vests and men’s shirting. One material in particular, an embroidered fabric with a surface woven from branches and tiny flower buds, made its way onto many looks and was lovely up close. He transformed his feminine prints into one-shoulder ruffled flamenco frocks and trousers covered in delicate bursts of florals.

Giambattista Valli Spring/Summer 2018
Photo: Courtesy of Imaxtree

Giambattista Valli has never met a ruffle he didn’t like.

Also in the mix were a polka-dotted, fully-sequined suit that would look amazing on Janelle Monae, a suit covered in sunflowers, knot-front blouses, and even matching denim separates. Valli used lace to cut sculptural lines into his looks, which translated better on column dresses than on a rather funky arrangement of slit panel skirts. To contrast the beginning and end, the former was grounded in solid prints and fabrics and the latter practically floated away on a cloud of printed mousseline.

For Spring/Summer 2018, it was clear that Valli wanted to infuse something new into his work, and the judicious application of more masculine elements helped him achieve that. Don’t worry, Valli girls, there are still plenty of ruffles to go around.

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